European Hemp's Bid to Reclaim the Textile Market

Suits, jeans, or flip-flops: hemp is finding its way back into fashion collections. Used in textiles for centuries before falling into disuse, this natural fibre is staging a comeback. Its advocates hope it will follow the same trajectory in fashion as linen has. Leading this reconquest: the Alliance for European Flax-Linen & Hemp (ALCE).

Première Vision: Hemp Steps into the Spotlight

At the Première Vision trade fair in Villepinte, near Paris, the Alliance for European Flax-Linen & Hemp (ALCE) stand displays various hemp garments alongside traditional ropes. While the initial appearance is rather austere, the tactile experience is surprisingly soft.

After bringing hemp textiles into its remit in 2022, ALCE has decided for the first time to put this fibre in the spotlight. France is Europe's leading producer with 23,600 hectares under cultivation, but only 1,650 hectares are dedicated to textiles — the rest serving paper production, food oil, or building insulation.

A drop in the ocean compared to linen's 176,000 hectares, of which 90% are used by the textile industry.

Following Linen's Success Story

"When I joined 19 years ago, linen was nowhere," recalls Marie-Emmanuelle Belzung, ALCE's Director General. Not on Fashion Week runways, not in mainstream retail. "It was innovation and creativity that elevated linen, along with its sustainability positioning."

Two approaches succeeded in refining the fibre: one was washed linen, which gave it a cool appeal, far from the rougher "grandmother's bedsheet" image. The other was knitting, which enabled T-shirts that are now everywhere — from Uniqlo to Monoprix.

This proven model is exactly what ALCE intends to replicate for hemp.

Building the Foundation for a Hemp Industry

Discussions around textile hemp multiplied in 2023 within the apparel sector, driven by growing enthusiasm for natural fibres. But as FashionNetwork noted, everything remained to be done to structure an industry around this bast fibre — easier to cultivate than flax but whose processing remains a challenge.

While linen represents only 0.5% of global textile fibre production, hemp "isn't even quantifiable," notes Julie Pariset, ALCE's Director of Innovation and CSR.

Technical challenges: fibre length

The specialist explains the challenges related to fibre length, essential for spinning: "There are different technological maturities for hemp. For short fibres, cottonisation — which aims to achieve an effect similar to cotton — with 20 or 30% hemp works. Beyond that, exploiting semi-long fibre to achieve 100% is now more or less mastered. As for long fibre adapted to linen processes — that is, retting, where fibre is extracted from the woody core — that's still at the R&D stage."

But "you can't just press a button to have hemp textiles; there's an entire industry to build" and then sustain, Julie Pariset affirms, showing a book filled with samples, including jerseys with a crêpe-like handle. "The whole project now is to explore the identified avenues with partners — whether industrial, private, retters, spinners, weavers, or agronomic and scientific experts."

A Global Market in Full Expansion

According to an October 2025 analysis by Market Research Future (MRFR), this niche is set to grow substantially: the global hemp clothing market, which stood at around $3 billion in 2024, will reach $8.5 billion USD by 2035 — representing annual growth of nearly 10%.

Hemp holds particular importance for France. In 2024, France was Europe's leading hemp producer for all uses, with 23,600 dedicated hectares. By comparison, China, the world's largest producer, devoted 65,000 hectares that same year, including 27,000 for textile hemp.

Pioneer Brands and Favourable Regulations

Some brands have taken the plunge. US brand Levi's produces jeans from hemp and cotton blends. Tommy Hilfiger just launched flip-flops in 100% hemp. At Ralph Lauren, pure hemp trousers retail for €395, while a pure hemp blouse at HempAge costs €72.

In the United States and Canada, growth is fuelled by increasing consumer awareness of sustainable fashion, coupled with regulations favourable to hemp cultivation, MRFR notes.

Linen and Hemp: Two Complementary Fibres

Bart Depourcq, CEO of Dutch company Van de Bilt, which specialises in retting linen and hemp, is convinced: "The outlets for these two plants are different but won't compete. They're complementary."

"Does hemp have the same potential as linen? We don't know, but we believe in it. It just needs time," maintains Marie-Emmanuelle Belzung, the Alliance's director.

Back to Basics and Image Challenges

For Catherine Basquin, textile consultant at advisory agency Nelly Rodi, "hemp concretely illustrates the current trend towards getting back to basics: even if we don't yet commonly use it in fashion, it addresses questions about textile sourcing, ethics, eco-design..."

However, she adds, "it will need to prove it's now far from the rustic potato sack image" and also from cannabis, which belongs to the same species as hemp.

The price barrier

One major obstacle remains: price. "That's what linen and hemp have in common, admits Bart Depourcq: it will never be cheap."

Source: FashionNetwork.com — "European Hemp Industry Prepares to Reclaim the Textile Market"